The Fish isn't just Fresh. It's Wild.
"...honored with our Wine Spectator Award of Excellence
every year since 1985. "
- Wine Spectator Magazine
CHEF PROFILE
Interview with Jim Filip and Executive Chef Russell Dare
of Doris & Ed’s
by Donna Sibilia-Squillaro
On a crisp, sunny Sunday afternoon, I drove north along Ocean
Avenue, from Long Branch, cruising past the tiny shore towns
that dot the seascape of the Atlantic and observed the
off-season scenery. The divine absence of traffic giving me a
sense of tranquility. I was heading towards the Highlands to
visit with Jim Filip, James Beard Award winning Restaurateur,
and Executive Chef, Russell Dare, of Doris and Ed’s.
When I initially spoke with Jim Filip over the phone, his easy
informal nature was quickly conveyed. He invited me to visit and
instructed me to go up the graduated walkway on the side of the
main entrance, of this former 100 year-old hotel. This led to
the back door of the kitchen. After three hard knocks, I was
greeted by Chef Dare, who with his kitchen staff, were in the
throws of preparation for service. As I moved through the length
of the kitchen, I observed the staff readying their individual
work stations. I quickly identified the familiar scent of
clarified butter resting on the stove. Then, a subtle yet sweet,
fresh aroma of slowly simmering, Lobster Bisque crossed my path
as I headed towards the lobster tanks and into the bright,
distinguished dining room.
The original decorum of knotty pine walls, plastic flowers and
fish from the restaurants’ original owners, Doris and Ed, are
long gone. The look is clean, simple elegance, with white wash
walls, framed artwork and accolades, fine quality table linens
and appropriately set tables. The large picture windows,
overlooking the beach and ocean offer the perfect view, no
matter what the weather brings. The original bar remains, fully
stocked to tickle your fancy. Although the name of the
restaurant and some of the menu is in its original content,
Filip created and continues to create a dining experience that
will linger on your lips and in your thoughts until you return
again.
Doris & Ed’s , withstanding the test of time has given its
30-year run with Jim Filip at the helm. Filip moved in, in May
of 1978, after a 13-year stretch by the original proprietors,
Doris & Ed. Over the course of his tenure, his dinner menu and
extensive wine lists have evolved through experimentation,
perseverance, travel and education. Filip initially offered just
the original menu when first assuming ownership. He knew,
though, that he wanted to venture beyond the typical menu
offered in similar shore locations, and added a blackboard to
list additional offerings. His first try at it was a single
entry; a farm raised Norwegian salmon with dill butter. He
served one piece that night, to himself. This did not stifle
him, but rather led him to forage further. He would visit the
Fulton Fish Market for instance, in the wee hours of the morning
to find unique selections and create new recipes in the kitchen.
Filip helped set the trend, and educated his staff and guests on
the daily offerings.
Over the course of time, the blackboard has been replaced with
modern-day technology of in-house printed, computer generated
menus, which can be modified on a daily basis. The menu,
presented in book fashion consists of “The Shore Yesterday,” on
the left side, comprised of 95% of the original Doris & Ed’s
menu for those looking to recapture their old-time favorites,
and “The Shore Today,” on the right, with its choice oyster
selections, and up-to-the-minute fresh fish and seafood
selections. The menu also includes an outstanding wine list
which has been duly awarded the Wine Spectator’s Award of
Excellence 23 years in a row.
Filip’s hard work has not gone unnoticed. In 1998, he was
awarded the coveted, James Beard Foundation Award of Excellence
as an America’s Regional Classic. His resume continues to swell
with notable achievements and rave reviews. This no doubt, is
collaboration between himself and Chef Dare. Dare came on board
18 years ago after working in numerous kitchens throughout the
country. A graduate of Johnson and Wales, he confesses to
“pushing the envelope a bit,” enticed by Filip’s openness to
creativity. They feed off of one another, using the restaurant
as a source of theatre to entertain the palate and the guests’
total dining experience. This is conveyed through the
scratch-cooking only kitchen, including stocks, ice cream,
sorbets and desserts. Dare also travels to other notable, top
spots in the country, including Per Se and The French Laundry to
expand his repertoire, while sharing his own culinary acumen. He
gladly takes in interns from culinary schools, providing a
hands-on education, second to none.
In looking back over the last 30 years, Filip stated “it took a
whole lot of different mistakes to be able to come up with what
I am particularly doing right now and how I am doing it.” As the
saying goes, we learn from our mistakes. Filip and Dare have
assured us that this saying holds true. Doris & Ed’s is perfect
in every way; a timeless classic, well-known beyond the shores
of Jersey. We’re just lucky enough to have it here in our own
backyard!
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