James Lenzi - The Mill
The Mill, (formerly the Old Mill Inn) at Spring Lake Heights,
has been through a renaissance since its inception back in 1938
when original owner Karl Kost, opened the doors of the rustic
inn. Nestled on a lake shared by fowl life, it soon became a
mainstay for local and vacationing guests craving the ultimate
dining experience. When turned over to subsequent owners, Ray
Kraemer and then Joe Amiel, the restaurant matured with the
tranquil view of water, flora and fauna. Whether from the large
picture windows in the dining areas or the lovely garden path
leading to a gazebo used for private wedding ceremonies, this
romantic lookout has allured its guests over the years as a
perfect compliment to any meal or celebration.
Betty Bennett has grown through the changes as a full-time,
exclusive employee of 43 years at the location. Ms. Bennett, a
sought-after waitress from the old school of service, has
witnessed countless marriages of employees, guests and other
memorable events since she came on board in 1964. She has also
observed the transformations that have taken place through
changes in venue and ownership. Now with owners Tamar Tolchin
and Anthony Cirillo at the helm, and Executive Chef James Lenzi
running the show in the kitchen, Bennett, who describes The Mill
as “my family,” may never consider leaving her home away from
home.
The Mill has metamorphosed under the direction of Tolchin and
Cirillo. The space, menus and venues are all updated yet
maintain the best attributes of its history. Their hands-on
approach and meticulous attention to detail has been polished
and refined since they took ownership in 2001. For Executive
Chef James Lenzi, the natural progression of change, both subtle
and obvious is second nature, given the places and spaces he has
been.
Lenzi, an honors graduate of the Culinary Institute of America,
first became smitten with the culinary world when on a cruise as
a teen. Born and raised in Conshohocken, Pennsylvania, he was
impressed by his observations of Garde Manger chefs working on
their ornate displays for the ships’ elaborate meals. This led
him to pursue employment in an upscale country club kitchen near
home. While enjoying hands-on work from prep to finished dishes,
he became curious about the origin and life cycle of food. Lenzi
would research the what, why and where of a particular item,
then “trace the food” in his head while preparing it. His Dad,
an owner of a butcher shop, voiced his concerns about a culinary
profession for his son when Lenzi expressed his desire to study
at the CIA. Knowing first-hand the implications of hard work and
long hours associated with the food industry, the elder Lenzi
asked him apply to local Philadelphia colleges also. Two days
prior to move-in day at Saint Joseph’s University, Lenzi got
word of his acceptance at the CIA and off he went at 17, to
pursue his dream career.
Lenzi learned and developed his skills amongst his peers with
whom he still remains in close contact today. An instructor,
Chef Claudio Peppini took a liking to him and would stay after
class with him to refine his skills. He subsequently offered
Lenzi the opportunity to apprentice in restaurants in Rome,
Sardinia and Tripoli. Lenzi spent 18 months doing just that,
which included the opportunity to help open The Jockey Club in
Tripoli. During the course of his European experience, Lenzi
sharpened his knowledge of classical Italian and French cuisine.
He also received a bonus - an unexpected, education of the
international foods familiar to employees he worked with of
Pakistani, Lebanese and Middle Eastern decent. When political
conflict arose in Tripoli, Lenzi packed his bags and headed
home, working in the Philadelphia area before traveling up the
turnpike to New York City.
Manhattan proved to be the place where Lenzi thickened his
resume with top-rated jobs, restaurants and accomplishments.
Starting as Chef de Cuisine at The Terrace Restaurant he then
moved on to famed Lutece under the direction of hands-on owner
and chef Andre Soltner. Lenzi became Saucier amidst working with
quail, foie gras, sweet breads, morels and chanterelles, back
when these items were rarely offered on a menu and rarely
executed well. After a three year run, Lenzi moved on to become
Executive Chef at one of Manhattan’s historic restaurants, Café
Des Artistes. This country-French elegant bistro known for its
romantic setting, excellent food and Howard Chandler Christy
nude murals is owned by noted restaurant consultant, food
historian and chef George Lang. Lenzi describes Lang as “a
walking encyclopedia on food,” who had the same approach as
Soltner - serve food that you would eat on a Sunday night, while
not making it a chore to order. Lenzi held his position for
seven years until he was ready for a change. With his resume
selected from 2000 applicants to open a new restaurant across
from Carnegie Hall, Lenzi had his first encounter with The Mill.
The owner at the time, Joe Amiel was expanding his restaurant
repertoire. He was on the search for an Executive Chef to open
the Symphony Café, a soon-to-be hot spot for artists, publishers
and literary types. Amiel invited him to The Old Mill in
September of 1988 for an interview for the New York position.
They opened a month later to great reviews.
In 1995 Amiel decided to sell and Lenzi was going to join him in
New Jersey. But as fate would have it, while pushing his son in
a stroller down Columbus Avenue, Lenzi bumped into a gentleman
coming out of a restaurant which sparked his curiosity. In
passing on this familiar route, he noted that the busiest nights
were always Thursday and Sunday and questioned the gentleman
about it. He learned Levana Restaurant an upscale, non-dairy,
Glatt Kosher restaurant was in need of an Executive Chef. Lenzi,
not quite ready to leave the city just yet, assumed the
position. He was immediately embraced by the community with open
arms. He described his stay there as “a wonderful experience,”
and remained for several years until a serious kitchen accident
had him off his feet for an extended period of time.
During his extensive recovery, Joe Amiel contacted Lenzi when
learning of his fate. No longer the owner of the Spring Lake
Heights location, he updated Lenzi on the
happenings at The Mill. With Tolchin and Cirillo looking to
refine the menu, Amiel persuaded Lenzi to meet with them to
offer his expertise. Lenzi describes that first meeting as “a
click,” and was impressed by the genuine
everyone-is-treated-like-family sense conveyed. He agreed to
extend himself in the kitchen for a season. That season isn’t
over yet.
Lenzi has gradually updated the classic American cuisine,
reflective of his years of experience. In the coming weeks the
menu will be redefined again with a stronger steak-house
influence and the introduction of more fish and seafood. The
lunch menu will also be modified to include a more casual,
lighter, contemporary twist on regional American standards.
Although some mainstay, original Mill recipes are scattered
through the menus, enticing new fresh selections are being
introduced continuously tempting even “regulars” to deviate from
their old habits.
As the perfectionist that he is Lenzi hand-picks everything,
from the Prime, dry-aged steaks to choice ingredients flown in
from around the world. He seeks out local fishermen and organic
farmers for their seasonal best as well. Additionally precious,
short-run offerings, such as ramps or fiddleheads are
highlighted at their peak on the menu making the savvy diner
salivate with anticipation. These and other subtle Lenzi touches
such as the homemade potato chips laced with truffle oil can
make even an ordinary accompaniment extraordinary.
Lenzi also puts great effort into menus for private functions.
Although there are a bevy of packages to choose from, he is
willing to customize any one of them to suit the
needs and tastes of the hosts and their guests. Much detail and
care goes into the main course for each event, making sure every
plate is balanced with flavors and textures.
Lenzi and The Mill have much in common. Each has a rich history
with many stories to tell. Both have endured their share of
change. Each holds the reputation for maintaining high standards
set through the years. Together, this winning combination will
continue to keep The Mill a Jersey Shore tradition for many
seasons to come.
The Mill at Spring Lake Heights.Old Mill Road, Spring Lake
Heights, NJ 732-449-1800. www.TheMillatSLH.com. Open Tuesday
through Sunday for lunch and dinner, with Sunday Buffet Brunch.
Seafood Buffet featured in summer months. Banquet facilities for
parties up to 250. Special Events, Supper Club Shows and Big
Band Nights. Accepts all major credit cards. Reservations
suggested.
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