Will Vivas of Vivas - Classic Latin Cuisine
By Donna Sibilia-Squillaro
Three years ago, I had the opportunity to interview budding
chef, Will Vivas, then of Bistro Olé whom I described, as a
“gentle soul.” He had left his homeland of Venezuela, a young
man in pursuit of the American Dream and was living it. A lot
has happened since then. Vivas has revised his dream and found
it a home in his newly established restaurant, Vivas. I too,
found a new Will; renewed, revived and all grown up.
Vivas took a break two years ago to return home to Venezuela.
During that time, he worked in several restaurants in Venezuela
and Columbia where he became a self-described, “hippie, working
for food and to learn.” He gained experiences that were
priceless, from cooking freshly caught fish on a wood burning
stove on the beach in Columbia, to working without a menu at a
small place in Venezuela, serving 250 lunches. In this later
position, the establishment offered six, freshly prepared,
different dishes each day that included soup, salad, bread,
dessert and juice for $2.00/plate. These experiences gave Vivas
a better appreciation of his countrymen and how they worked for
little compensation. It also enlightened his appreciation of
opportunities and conveniences he may have taken for granted
here in America.
During his sojourn, Will began to explore a rejuvenated sense of
self. Poised and confident, he was ready to come back to the
United States with a brand new vision.
He contacted friends here, David and Eva Pollack who were
instrumental in his return. They encouraged him to come back and
follow his dream of opening a new restaurant. This move was also
precipitated by the birth of his son, Noah Sebastian. Wanting
Noah to have every advantage he didn’t have growing up, he knew
he would be able to provide him with a better life here in
America.
Returning to tackle his next adventure, Vivas secured a new
restaurant space in Belmar, enlisting the help of a Philadelphia
decorator to carry out his ideas for the dining area. Warm
painted walls adorned with ornate, jeweled-tone art objects
evoke a spicy character to the room. The kitchen, which he
designed, has ample workspace, equipment and kitchenware. It is
large enough to house the seven line cooks, prep staff, cold
kitchen chef and barista comfortably. Organized and neat, the
kitchen exudes cleanliness, even in the midst of service,
something, which Vivas takes much pride in. The one kitchen rule
he insists on is loud, cheerful music. The upbeat, Latin tunes
keep the staff happy while working. Vivas smiled when he stated,
“If you take away the music, they will all quit.”
Vivas is complimentary of all of his employees. He describes a
great kitchen staff that follows his recipes to the “t”. They
collaborate on new recipes all of the time, and Vivas, a
self-described, risk-taker, will put novel creations on a daily
specials menu. He is confident in his wait staff as well,
stating they are “polished and educated on the menu and its
ingredients.” This is truly a reflection of himself and the
message he is trying to convey to his guests; every aspect of
the dining experience should be exceptional.
Vivas opened in late August, 2007. Situated in the Belmar Plaza,
at a location that proved unsuccessful for its former
inhabitants, Vivas has already changed the luck of its location.
With a full house on the weekends, guests don’t seem to mind the
wait, but are rather, happy to be able to eat the signature
cuisine, which distinguishes Vivas from the rest. Although it is
toted as “classic Latin,” I beg to differ with the term and
description. Most of Vivas’ menu is far removed from the classic
menus one thinks of when eating foods of South America, Cuba,
and Spain. Rather, the characteristic foods of these areas are a
starting point, from which Vivas’ risk-taking talents really
come in to play. He ventures into nuances of Italian and French
cuisine, infused with Latin flavors and ingredients. This is
akin to past European influences adopted by the immigrants who
settled into South America. There are also Mexican subtleties
such as different peppers and sauces, lacing some of the
selections on the menu as well. In addition, Vivas has devised
his own concoctions, taking nothing from the books. Always
willing to take a chance, he marries flavors, foods and cuisines
with the faith that he will “wow” his guests and win them over.
This was evident as I stood by the door, on my recent visit.
Gushing praises and thank yous to the hostess were easily heard
as the patrons left the establishment.
The plated choices are both delectable and art-inspiring to
behold. Each comes out of the kitchen like a masterpiece,
colorfully arranged, looking almost too good to eat. Dig in
though, and savor every bite, but don’t forget to leave room for
coffee and dessert.
With a distinctive menu featuring 35 different coffee drinks and
choice, in-house made desserts, Vivas has left nothing up to the
imagination.
The gentle soul I met three years ago has blossomed and grown
both in and out of the kitchen. He is happy to be back, where
his dream began and where he can make dreams for his son, Noah,
come true. During my visit, as I stood in the kitchen with Vivas,
I couldn’t help but notice something over the double doors.
Scribbled in black marker on white butcher paper, was a quote he
placed on the wall. It read: “Forever is composed of nows.”
Aptly put for a man who lives each day by this credo, and makes
it count in every aspect of his life.
|
|
|
|
|