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Aperitifs and Digestifs

The Proper Way to Begin and End A Memorable Meal
By Peder Hagberg

There's nothing more satisfying or sophisticated in my mind than to jumpstart a dining experience with a palate cleansing aperitif, and to cap off a memorable meal with a stomach settling digestif. Yet it seems that few Americans know much about the great variety - or taste-bud-tickling flavor profiles - of the aperitifs and digestifs that are available, and the history that has made them staples in many parts of the culinary world. We hope you'll use this article as a guide to expanding your culinary experiences and we promise that with a little experimenting, you too will find a favorite spirit with which to begin and end your meal.

Aperitifs

Aperitifs

An aperitif is an alcoholic drink served before a meal, sometimes as an appetizer, or accompanied with an appetizer. The drink is usually somewhat bitter, sweet or light, and serves as a warm-up or opener to a meal. To me, aperitifs are a conversation starter and the way to ease into a meal. Aperitif comes from the Latin aperire a verb meaning "to open." In France, one might receive an aperitif before a meal, usually dinner, and sometimes lunch. In Italy, one would be offered an aperitivo. When I lived in Spain, almost every meal, including a quick stop for mid-morning tapas, began with a small pour of fino sherry....a mouth puckering and bone-dry aperitivo.

The origins of serving an aperitif are difficult to specifically identify. There is some speculation that serving an aperitif may have been common in Ancient Egypt, but little corroborating evidence exists to give this theory backing. More likely the invention of vermouth in Italy was cause to begin serving an aperitif in the late 18th century. By the late 19th century, the tradition of serving cocktails prior to dinner was both a European and American custom. Drinks like the martini, sherry, or even dry white wine or champagne sufficed as a palate warmer.

Most countries have popular aperitifs. For example, martinis before dinner are quite common in meals of several courses in the US. The French tend to drink anise-based liquors, like Pastis and Pernod. Kir, a mixture of white wine and cassis is also popular, and for those who wish to be fancy, Kir Royale, a mix of champagne and cassis might be substituted.

The Greeks may also serve an aperitif before dinner, and one most common to them is ouzo, another drink with an anise flavor. The Italians may favor cinzano or campari which are both bitter. Vermouth might also be served.

Digestifs

Digestifs

In company with the aperitif is the digestif - a drink served after the meal. The function of the digestif is the opposite of the aperitif. As its name implies, many digestifs were originally designed to aid digestion, and like some of the traditional aperitifs, are herb-based. I am a firm believer in the stomach-settling qualities of digestifs, and my favorite is French Chartreuse, which was originally made by the Cartnusian Monks in the mountains of France. Be sure to go with Green Chartreuse when you can find it (110 proof or 55% alcohol) which is a naturally green liqueur flavored with extracts from 130 plants with its coloring coming from chlorophyll, from which the name of the color is derived. Yellow Chartreuse is fine too, but it has a milder and sweeter aroma and doesn't pack the same stomach-settling properties of its green cousin.

Another favorite digestif, is the Italian bitter called Fernet-Branca - a root vegetable smash that has a unique earthy (some say dirt-like) aroma. Fernet Branca is made with over 40 herbs and spices, and is a perfect way to end a meal.

Other popular digestifs are cognac, port, armagnac, brandy, grappa, madeira, sweeter sherries, and other herb flavored liqueurs like Cointreau and Sambuca.

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